Paris is a wonderful city, full of history and culture. It has some of the most famous sites in the world, but what I like most is about Paris is seeking out the unusual, the curious and less well known. Monmartre is full of character and mystery. It is worthwhile spending a full day in this area to get a glimpse of Paris of old. Montmartre`s hill, the butte was for centuries a rural village, littered with windmills grinding the capital`s flour. The low rents and picturesque charm soon found favour with the writers, artist and musicians of the 19th century, and with their arrival came the opening of the lively bars, raunchy cabarets and the sleazy brothels. The tourists arrived after Word War 1, flocking in their thousands on pilgrimages to Sacre-Coeur. Despite there being a notoriously seedy side to Montmartre around Pigalle, the winding streets and picturesque squares have helped the area keep its village atmosphere and charm.
Marvel at the wonderful, whimsical frescoes as you climb the precipitous steps from the platform of Metro Abbesses on your arrival in Montmartre. The station exits to the tranquil Place de Abbesses which is dominated by the swirling mass of pale green ironwork and glass of the art nouveau station entrance. In winter the square comes to life with a Christmas market, the air filled with the smell of crepes and chestnuts being roasted on open fires.
The lively boulevard de Rochecheouart is the starting point for the long hike to the summit of the butte with its masses of tourists, before joining them, take a couple of minutes to find no 84. Now a tacky tourist shop, the plaque on the wall shows it once housed the infamous Le Chat Noir, Rodolphe Sasis` Cabaret. Just a few doors away is the crumbling facade of the Theatre Ellsee-Montmartre where the famous can-can dancer, La Goule made her debut before defecting to the Moulin Rouge further down the boulevard.
Lined with shops selling fabric and clothes the rue de Steinkerque is where a young Pablo Picasso once frequented its brothels, as you near the top the gleaming white Basilica of Sacre-Coeur dominate the skyline of the butte. Beware this area is frequented by hustlers and street traders eager to relieve tourists of their hard earned cash. One of my favourite experiences in Paris is to climb the steps to the basilica, stopping off on one of the inviting wooden benches in the midst of the immaculate lawns bordered by hedges, and picnic on some lovely fresh baked baguette with "fromage" purchased from one of the many bakers on your way to the butte. The views across the city are truly breathtaking. For the price of a single metro ticket the funicular will whisk you to the top where the 226 steps of the rue Foyatier make for a lovely photograph opportunity. Before leaving the butte other places of interest are the Musee de Montmartre, the districts oldest house takes visitors on a journey through its history, and the Espace Montmartre Salvador Dali, a permanent exhibition of sculptures and paintings by the surrealist artist. Finally a must visit is the famous place de Tertre, a square in the heart of Montmartre bustling with hordes of tourists, eager to have their portrait painted by one of the many undistinguished artists who also sell their tacky landscapes from stalls which are crammed around the square. Ensure you haggle for a better price before you sit for a portrait. The square became popular in the 19th century as an exhibition place, but standards have dropped over the years. The cafes that line the square cater for the tourists and while they may be pricey, it is the atmosphere that is attraction rather than the cusine.
Descend the butte via the Montmartre vineyard, set in picturesque grounds and planted in the 1930s it is a reminder that once the area was covered in vines. The vineyard produces approximately 700 bottles of wine each year. The wine can be sampled at the bistro La Mere Catherine, found in corner of place de Tertre. It is not however considered to be anything special. The Au Lapin Agile stands at the foot of the vineyard, once favoured by writers and artists including Picasso, it`s now a traditional style cafe by day and turns in to a dancehall in the evenings.
Leaving the hill climbing behind, wander through the many busy and vibrant streets of Montmartre, the whole area is awash with cafes and bars, squares and statues, too many to mention. A lot of the fun of this area is getting a map and finding your own favourite cafe or place to visit or place to sit and watch Paris go by. Probably one of the most renowned sites of Montmartre is the Moulin Rouge. Constructed in 1885 the "red windmill" was converted into a dance hall in 1902 and soon gained a reputation as the hottest show in Paris, it has now become a very expensive tourist show featuring scantily clad dancing chorus girls and has none of the finesse immortalised by the artist Toulouse-Lautrec. Moulin de la Galette at No 79 rue Lepic a close neighbour of Moulin Rouge was also turned into a ballroom and features in Renoir`s painting Le Bal du Moulin de la Galette. Sandwiched between the two windmills is the quirky Cafe des deux Moulins an ideal place to finish your day with a cold beer, glass of wine or cafe au lait.
Montmartre is ideal for anyone who likes to explore. It`s very hilly and steep in places and can be unsuitable for people with walking difficulties, electric buses run to the top of the butte for those who cannot manage the climb. If you visit Pigalle you need to be aware of the possibility of pickpockets and petty street crime. The sex shops and cinema`s which come alive in a blaze of neon in the evening are probably best avoided. Like wise some of the food bars can be of very poor standard but I suppose it`s the risqué element that attracts the tourist to" just have a look".
Fewer places can offer so much to do in a day than Gibraltar. Standing majestically on the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula with stunning views over the Rif Mountains of Morocco, the colony has historically been an important base for the British Forces, and is easily reached from the Spanish holiday resorts on the Costa del Sol. The Gibraltarians are deeply patriotic and are proud of their association with all things British. Union Jacks flutter from apartments in the gentle Mediterranean breeze, the pubs and cafes on Main Street tempt weary tourists with full English breakfast, fish and chips and a pint of bitter. Familiar high street names like Marks and Spencer, Mothercare and BHS mingle with traditional retailers selling leather, fine porcelain and glassware. Explore the narrow lanes and alleyways seeking out duty free bargains as you head along Main Street towards Casemates Square, once the site of public executions, and now a trendy plaza lined with fashionable cafes and bars.
Head for Europa Point, the views of Africa are exceptional on a clear day or evening. The lighthouse at the Point is 150 years old and still in service today, it is the only one outside Britain managed by Trinity House. Looking out over the Straights of Gibraltar it is clear why the Rock has been strategically important during many bitter conflicts, a legacy which has left many relics from a fascinating military history. Along the coast near the Spanish port of Cadiz, Admiral Nelson engaged with the Franco Spanish fleet at the Battle of Trafalgar. The battle was Britain's greatest naval victory, but Nelson was hit by a French sharpshooter and mortally wounded. His body was brought back to Gibraltar before returning to England for the last time. The Trafalgar cemetery on the edge of town is a wonderfully peaceful place amid the hustle and bustle of daily life of Gibraltar. The Grave stones name some of the young sailors who died during the battle.
Among the most impressive of the fortifications of Gibraltar are the Southport Gates, a series of walls and fortifications that were part of Gibraltar's defences for literally hundreds of years. Other fortifications worth a look at are The Ragged Staff Gates, The Grand Casemates Gates, South Bastion and Kings Bastion.
There are over 30 miles of man-made tunnels inside the Rock of Gibraltar. That’s more tunnels than there are roads. The Great Siege Tunnels were hollowed out during the longest siege in Gibraltarian history, lasting from 1779 to 1783. In order to repel the Spanish and French forces, tunnels were dug into the rock by the soldier artificers to house the canons. The tunnels are open to the public and will give you an idea of the terrible conditions the soldiers had to fight in. Imagine the noise of the canon being fired inside the tunnel. The tunnels lead down hill into the rock and out to the other side with impressive views of Catalan bay from the observation platform, be careful how deep you go its a long climb back to daylight.
No trip to Gibraltar would be complete without a visit to the upper rock nature reserve. This can be reached by car but the road is narrow and winding. It is probably wiser to take one of the organised rock tours by taxi or coach, or for those with a head for heights take the cable car. As well as being home to around 240 Barbary apes, there is an abundance of other wildlife to see including over 300 species of birds, 600 species of plants, red foxes and mouse eared bats. Legend has it that when the apes leave Gibraltar so will the British. Also worth visiting in the reserve are the Pillars of Hercules and St Michaels cave a fantastic natural grotto filled stalactites and stalagmites. Cathedral cave is now used for concerts because of fantastic acoustics. The upper nature reserve was the location for the daring chase scene in the 1987 James Bond film “The living Daylights”.
Sometimes it`s nice just to relax and the stunning Catalan bay is an ideal place to soak up the sun and take a dip in the crystal waters of the Mediterranean. Sip an ice cold beer in the cafes and bars along the harbour or cruise in the calm waters watching the dolphins.
Gibraltar is an exciting and intriguing place, full of history and has something for everyone as long as you are prepared to look. The people are friendly and you have all the comforts of home. Travelling from the Costa del Sol will cost around £10 to £15 by coach and takes about 1 or 2 hours.
Ten things you must do in Gibraltar.
1. Take a trip to the breathtaking upper nature reserve. Enjoy the panoramic views and meet some of Gibraltar`s native inhabitants, but beware they may bite!
2. Visit the Great Siege tunnels and journey deep into the rock.
3. Take a dip in the crystal waters of Catalan Bay.
4. Take tea in one of the waterfront restaurants with views over the busy harbour.
5. Wander through the tranquil Trafalgar Cemetery.
6. Board a Dolphin safari.
7. Relax with a coffee or ice cold beer in Casemates Square.
8. Shop till you drop in Main Street, treat yourself to perfume at rock bottom duty-free prices.
9. Head for The Pillars of Hercules with stunning views over North Africa and the Rif Mountains.
10. Take a walk along the narrow roads and paths on the upper rock with over 600 species of plants.
Featured in the quirky low budget film Amélie, the Café des Deux Moulins is a lovely offbeat place to visit whilst staying in Paris. Found amongst the atmospheric streets of Monmartre 18e on rue Lepic and just a five minute stroll from the nearest metro Blanche, it is an ideal way to savour "cafe Paris "at its best. Take the weight off your feet whilst you enjoy a piping hot “espresso” sat outside under the heaters on a cold winter day. Observe the hustle and bustle as the locals search for bargains to cook for tea in the fishmongers, bakers and butchers below the chic apartments. Take in the sights and sounds of Parisian street life before you retire to the warmth and character of the cafe, where Amélie made famous her habit of breaking the crust of her crème brûlée with her spoon.
Inside the charming 1950`s decor with mustard ceiling and neon lights gives you a feel of times gone by. The tables are packed tightly together. The toilets are unisex. The menu is in French. The bar is frequented by do nothings, local traders and diners who are oblivious to the constant trickle of tourists, eager to take pictures of the film memorabilia which adorn the walls.
The menu is small and caters for the locals. Speak to the waiters, they don`t bite and they can even appear to be friendly if you try a little French. For a snack try the platters, ideal for sharing, choose from meat, cheese or a combination of both, lovely with a bottle of wine, and just right for munching on whilst you people watch. The fillet of beef with three sauces is absolutely delicious, a juicy fillet cooked to your liking with the butter sauces slowly melting on top, served with fried potatoes and vegetables. The succulent hamburger is served slightly rare accompanied with coleslaw and fries. You can also choose dishes like veal escolpes or calf`s liver. The waiter will lay your table with a paper place mat which depicts scenes from Amélie. If you ask nicely he will give you a second one to take as a souvenir.Other than the crème brûlée,the deserts on offer fail to wet the appetite but there are an abundance of cake shops to be found on rue Lepic.
With drinks you need to budget between 15e to 20e per head. The cafe is open from 7 am till 1 am every day. Is it for you? The cafe was there before the film and apart from a few pictures it remains pretty much the same. So you get a taste of Paris with the novelty of a film set, two cafe`s for the price of one. See it for yourself and make your own mind up. Amélie was nominated for five Oscars so it probably deserves five stars!
Café des Deux Moulins
15 Rue Lepic, 18th Arrondissement
Paris, France
Metro Blanche
Looking for somewhere special to eat in Blackpool? Take a trip to the Gurkha Buffet Restaurant located on Waterloo Road south shore. You will find an amazing variety of tasty food served in a friendly atmosphere. Booking is a must over the weekend as word of mouth recommendations have made this one of Blackpool`s busiest restaurants. On entering you will be greeted at the reception and taken to your table by one of the smartly dressed waiting staff. Take a moment to admire the displays of Gurkha military mementoes which will give you an idea of their proud history and association with the British Army. The owners are ex British soldiers and are always happy to chat about their homelands and history.
The restaurant is busy and vibrant making it ideal for groups and parties. Order your drinks at the table, be sure to try the Gurkha beer, then it`s off to the buffet tables and on an exotic eastern journey through China, India, Thailand, Malaya and Singapore before finishing in Nepal with the famous lamb Gurkha curry. The buffet is “eat as much as you want” which is an ideal way of sampling the many foods on offer. The menu is constantly changed, the chef`s select up to forty amazing dishes from over one hundred and fifty each day. There is always something for every one.
The starters include delicious shredded crispy ducked served with pancakes and chopped spring onions with a choice of sauces including chilli, soy and plum. If you can fit any more on your plate there are onion Bhaji`s samosas, spare ribs, chicken satay, prawn toasts and many more beautifully cooked and tasty nibbles.
It is hard to find where to start with the main course such is the variety on offer. Each dish is labelled and served piping hot. Choose from curries, sweet and sour, and Korma. There are unusual dishes like the scrumptious spicy noodles, seaweed and seafood including prawn, squid and muscles. Help yourself to Prawn crackers naan bread and rice. Something for every one, lots of choices for vegetarians chicken nuggets and chips for the children. When you think you`ve had enough be daring and try the famous Gurkha lamb curry. Tender pieces of lamb in a dry hot spicy sauce, not for the faint hearted. This dish has been a favourite of the British Army for many years and is still served to soldiers today.
The Gurkha buffet restaurant is a lovely place to spend an evening with friends and enjoy wonderful food in a lively atmosphere, at less than £10 per head at weekends you will find it difficult to find better value.
