Under African Skies

I decided to dust down my copy of Long Way Down and have another look at it since one of the co-authors Charley Boorman is currently touring the UK with a show about his travels with Ewan McGregor. I wanted to read it again before making my mind up on whether or not to go and see his show in Blackpool. Long Way Down is the second book by the fellow actors and motorcycle fanatics Charley Boorman and Ewan McGregor, it is a diary stye account of a extraordinary 15000 mile journey from John O`Groats at the northernmost tip of Scotland to Cape Agulhas on the southernmost tip of South Africa. Their choice of bikes, the almost indestructible BMW R1200 GS Adventure carries them across two continents, visiting eighteen countries and over some of the toughest terrain the world has to offer.



The book which accompanied a BBC television series of the same name reflects the independent views of both riders, each writing short accounts as the journey unfolds. For me this makes for more informative reading as you get a sense of the tensions that can arise when people are travelling and living together for a long period of time. There is also a chance to see how the same strenuous and exhausting journey can have differing effects on each traveller. It must be every bikers dream to be able to undertake a journey like long Way Down and I certainly felt jealous of Charley and Ewan as I read the early chapters which briefly describe the preparations and the mainly tarmac journey through Europe, I even thought I would have been able to step in for Ewan when he broke his leg before the off. There is an obvious rivalry between the two friends. Charley is by far the better rider whereas Ewan is by far the better actor. Ewan is often frustrated by his failings on the bike which are not helped with Charley showing off his motorcycling skills at every opportunity. The tensions build as the journey follows a path through the stunning scenery of the African continent.


The second half of the journey down through Africa is what the trip is really all about, it is a superb account of two “lads” who set out to enjoy a boyhood dream but are brought back down to earth by meeting children whose lives have been shattered by war, children who were soldiers and children brought up in mine affected area`s. They meet friendly tribesmen, gorilla`s and elephants, they tell of the drama and dangers of Africa, of riding in high temperatures across different challenging terrains. With their unique humour they tell of a journey through Tunisia, Egypt, Sudan, Kenya, Uganda and many other fascinating countries. They take in some famous sites. I suppose it makes a change to see some one sat on a motorcycle rather than a camel in front of the great pyramids of Egypt.


Long Way Down is an account of two lads on an adventure inspired by their previous visits to Africa on behalf of UNICEF, sometimes funny, sometimes emotional and sometimes sad. It differs from the one man on his travels like many adventures as Charley and Ewan give the reader an insight into their friendship, their character and their determination to succeed. We see two people working together being supported by family and friends but as in life, relationships and paths don`t often run smoothly. We see two grown adults both successful actors with their boyish humour showing off and bragging to each other. We see hints of jealousy and rivalry none more so than when Charley describes the visit to the Star Wars film set in Tunisia and points out that whilst Ewan was a star of later Star War films no one recognised him even though he walked round the set with a shirt with McGregor emblazoned on the back.


The book has forty eight pages of colour photographs as well as maps and technical details of equipment. It is easy reading and follows the natural path of a journey from the planning through to completion. It will appeal to motorcycle enthusiasts as well as travellers. It describes a journey that I felt I could complete myself and gave me a feeling of wanting to be travelling with them. The fact that it was filmed for television meant that they had to take a camera crew, equipment and support vehicles with them sometimes giving the impression of the boys getting to much help and not just about Charley and Ewan facing Africa by themselves. I found Long Way down a compelling adventure to read and I would recommend this fascinating book even if motorcycling and travelling may not be your first choice subject matter for a good read.

Almost perfect

Located on the rue Rodier in Montmartre Paris and just a short walk from both the Moulin Rouge and Sacre Coeur this charming hotel /hostel is ideal for travellers who are looking for cheap accommodation in the heart of this beautiful and historic city. Close to the Anvers metro station on the nearby boulevard de Rochechouart the hotel is popular with both families and students from all over the world and makes an ideal base from which to explore Paris.


In common with all Parisian hotels space is at a premium so room sizes are small and not all the rooms in the hotel Perfect have private facilities so be carful when making your booking to stipulate whether or not you wish to share. All floors can be reached by stairs or the rickety lift which creeps slowly upwards as you wonder if you might spend your whole visit to Paris stuck inside. The rooms are basic in their furnishing and the decor is old and tired but they are clean. The hotel appeals to travelers who spend most of their time out and about and not too interested in luxury. The dress of the day is backpacks rather than designer suitcases.

The reception, open 24hrs a day is run by friendly and helpful English speaking staff who will happily advise you on any aspects of your stay in Paris, they also offer a safety deposit box for your valuables although this is a communal one and you will need to wrap your valuables to keep them secure. Also available in reception are free maps of Paris, free baggage storage and English newspapers. Adjacent to the reception is a small rest room which is usually busy with guests preparing for the days sightseeing and swapping stories about their experiences of the city. There are vending machines for coffee or soft drinks as well as a well worn piano in the rest room.

Breakfast is served next door to reception and consists of French bread, butter, jam, coffee and fruit juice, whilst this might not be as generous as other continental breakfasts, guests are welcome to use the small kitchen to make a light snack or drink. On the street outside the hotel as well as a few grocers and local bars you will find a lovely cake and bread shop serving fresh baguettes stuffed with ham and cheese and fantastic mouth watering pastries overflowing with glazed fruit just right for your picnic during the day.

So is this hotel for you? It`s busy, vibrant and full of character. The enthusiastic backpackers can be a little noisy as they begin to retire for the night using the shared facilities. The breakfast is just about adequate as are the facilities but you will get the feeling of being a traveler rather than just another English tourist. You can exchange tales of yesterday`s exciting trips with like minded adventurers over a coffee in the inviting rest room. With prices per person per night starting at E22, and being able to reach the hotel in about 10 to 15 minutes on foot from the Eurostar terminal in the Gare du Nord are what makes the hotel Perfect an attractive option for your stay in central Paris. If you are looking for luxury and being pampered this is not the place to go. If you are traveling on a budget and don`t mind the basic hostel style of the younger traveler this is a lovely place to rest your weary legs after pounding the boulevards and avenues of one of the worlds great cities.


You will find it very hard to find a cheaper hotel.

Triumphal way

For the legions of visitors to Paris the enthralling walk from the Palais Royal, through tranquil gardens to the majestic Arc de Triomphe has become a pilgrimage. Despite the many competing charms the city has to offer, the history and the grandeur of the Champs Elysees is the highlight of any stay in Paris. The entrance to Palais Royal Metro station, the starting point for this walk, was redesigned by Jean-Michel Othoniel, as the "Kiosque des noctambules" (Kiosk of the night-walkers), it was completed in October 2000 for the centenary of the Metro. Made of glass beads coloured and threaded on a structure of aluminum the contemporary design representing day and night is in stark contrast to the surrounding traditional buildings. The court yard of the Palais Royal with its ugly black and white striped pillars and fountains with revolving silver spheres provide further examples of how modern works of art struggle to fit in against a backdrop of historical Paris.



Long before it became a museum, the Louvre was a royal palace constantly growing in size under a succession of French kings. Even in modern times changes have taken place with the addition of the controversial glass pyramid in 1989. Have a sit down by the pyramid and marvel at the architecture of the Louvre, it is hard not to imagine the scenes of days gone by, horse drawn carriages clattering across the court yards carrying the French royalty as they go about their daily lives. Admire the Champs Elysees in all its glory with the triumphal arch of Arc de Triomphe shimmering in the distance before embarking on a journey along the nation’s most famous avenue.


Nestling between the out stretched arms of the Louvre, the Arc de Triomphe de Carousel was built to commemorate Napoleonic victories and was once adorned with four bronze horses which have since been returned to St Marks square in Venice. The graceful arch stands at the entrance to the elegant and formal Jardin des Tuileries. This pleasant stroll takes you through the well maintained gardens with ornamental ponds and dozens of statues. Enjoy your picnic here whilst children take donkey rides and play with their yachts in the ponds or watch the Parisian gentlemen pitch their “boules” as they noisily try to outwit each other. The gardens were laid out by Louis X1V`s architect and quickly became the place to be see and be seen in Paris.


Leave the gardens by the grand gilded gates, pass the giant Ferris wheel and head for the centre of the magnificent Place de Concorde with its fountains, statues and fantastic views in all four directions. The 3300 year old Luxor obelisk stands close to the spot where the infamous guillotine was once used to behead over 1100 unfortunate people including LouisXV1 and Marie Antoinette. The square itself has been all but ruined by the constant traffic roaring around. It is a danger zone for pedestrians eager to cross over to the safety of the tree lined pavements of the Champs Elysees. Take the winding path through the Jardins des Champs Elysees with its lush Lawns and pretty flower beds another lovely place to picnic. This area hosts a fantastic Christmas market in the winter months. With all the splendour you would associate with this area of Paris, smartly decorated stalls line both sides of the avenue as far as the eye can see. The air is filled with the tempting smells of roasting chestnuts, mulled wine and cheese fondue’s. See Santa and his reindeer fly over head to the sound of jingle bells whilst you shop for unusual tree decorations, chocolate and Christmas gifts. It will be very hard to find a better Christmas market.


Now it`s time to join the throngs of people and march up the dramatic sweeping incline of the Champs Elysees. The ideal setting for historic processions, from the sombre return of Napoleons remains to the victory parades of two World Wars. Although once an avenue where ladies would stroll, adorned in the finest fashions of the day it is now full of brash shops and fast food restaurants. The expensive “Le lido” renowned cabaret show and famous for its blue belle dancing girls typifies the modern touristy image of the Champs Elysees. It can be found amongst a parade of brand name shops and hotels which line the route to the end of the walk the place de Charles de Gaulle. Take the pedestrian tunnel rather than risk life or limb dodging the never ending traffic circling the Arc de Triomphe. The Arc dominates the central point of a web of twelve avenues, commissioned in 1806 by Napoleon it now shelters a flame lit daily at 6.30am and the tomb of the Unknown Soldier, reminders of the less glamourous side of war. Before heading off back to your hotel take one last look down the magnificent avenue and think about its glorious history.


Many tourists complain that Paris can be expensive; this is a lovely way to enjoy the city at its best for free.