Sunday 7 March 2010

Triumphal way

For the legions of visitors to Paris the enthralling walk from the Palais Royal, through tranquil gardens to the majestic Arc de Triomphe has become a pilgrimage. Despite the many competing charms the city has to offer, the history and the grandeur of the Champs Elysees is the highlight of any stay in Paris. The entrance to Palais Royal Metro station, the starting point for this walk, was redesigned by Jean-Michel Othoniel, as the "Kiosque des noctambules" (Kiosk of the night-walkers), it was completed in October 2000 for the centenary of the Metro. Made of glass beads coloured and threaded on a structure of aluminum the contemporary design representing day and night is in stark contrast to the surrounding traditional buildings. The court yard of the Palais Royal with its ugly black and white striped pillars and fountains with revolving silver spheres provide further examples of how modern works of art struggle to fit in against a backdrop of historical Paris.



Long before it became a museum, the Louvre was a royal palace constantly growing in size under a succession of French kings. Even in modern times changes have taken place with the addition of the controversial glass pyramid in 1989. Have a sit down by the pyramid and marvel at the architecture of the Louvre, it is hard not to imagine the scenes of days gone by, horse drawn carriages clattering across the court yards carrying the French royalty as they go about their daily lives. Admire the Champs Elysees in all its glory with the triumphal arch of Arc de Triomphe shimmering in the distance before embarking on a journey along the nation’s most famous avenue.


Nestling between the out stretched arms of the Louvre, the Arc de Triomphe de Carousel was built to commemorate Napoleonic victories and was once adorned with four bronze horses which have since been returned to St Marks square in Venice. The graceful arch stands at the entrance to the elegant and formal Jardin des Tuileries. This pleasant stroll takes you through the well maintained gardens with ornamental ponds and dozens of statues. Enjoy your picnic here whilst children take donkey rides and play with their yachts in the ponds or watch the Parisian gentlemen pitch their “boules” as they noisily try to outwit each other. The gardens were laid out by Louis X1V`s architect and quickly became the place to be see and be seen in Paris.


Leave the gardens by the grand gilded gates, pass the giant Ferris wheel and head for the centre of the magnificent Place de Concorde with its fountains, statues and fantastic views in all four directions. The 3300 year old Luxor obelisk stands close to the spot where the infamous guillotine was once used to behead over 1100 unfortunate people including LouisXV1 and Marie Antoinette. The square itself has been all but ruined by the constant traffic roaring around. It is a danger zone for pedestrians eager to cross over to the safety of the tree lined pavements of the Champs Elysees. Take the winding path through the Jardins des Champs Elysees with its lush Lawns and pretty flower beds another lovely place to picnic. This area hosts a fantastic Christmas market in the winter months. With all the splendour you would associate with this area of Paris, smartly decorated stalls line both sides of the avenue as far as the eye can see. The air is filled with the tempting smells of roasting chestnuts, mulled wine and cheese fondue’s. See Santa and his reindeer fly over head to the sound of jingle bells whilst you shop for unusual tree decorations, chocolate and Christmas gifts. It will be very hard to find a better Christmas market.


Now it`s time to join the throngs of people and march up the dramatic sweeping incline of the Champs Elysees. The ideal setting for historic processions, from the sombre return of Napoleons remains to the victory parades of two World Wars. Although once an avenue where ladies would stroll, adorned in the finest fashions of the day it is now full of brash shops and fast food restaurants. The expensive “Le lido” renowned cabaret show and famous for its blue belle dancing girls typifies the modern touristy image of the Champs Elysees. It can be found amongst a parade of brand name shops and hotels which line the route to the end of the walk the place de Charles de Gaulle. Take the pedestrian tunnel rather than risk life or limb dodging the never ending traffic circling the Arc de Triomphe. The Arc dominates the central point of a web of twelve avenues, commissioned in 1806 by Napoleon it now shelters a flame lit daily at 6.30am and the tomb of the Unknown Soldier, reminders of the less glamourous side of war. Before heading off back to your hotel take one last look down the magnificent avenue and think about its glorious history.


Many tourists complain that Paris can be expensive; this is a lovely way to enjoy the city at its best for free.